It is a beautiful thing when a writer is able to encapsulate perfectly our feelings, in a far more eloquent and accurate way than we could ever hope to manage. And so, on reading Tim Winton’s excellent surf novel ‘Breath’, I found myself in perfect understanding with the protagonist when he speaks of the freedom, pointlessness and beauty of surfing:
“My favourite time is when we’re all at the Point, because when they see me out on the water I don’t have to be cautious and I’m never ashamed. Out there I’m free. I don’t require management. They probably don’t understand this, but it’s important for me to show them that their father is a man who dances – who saves lives and carries the wounded, yes, but who also does something completely pointless and beautiful, and in this at least he should need no explanation.”
And it is for this reason – Tim Winton’s understanding and experience of the surfing psyche – that I would recommend a read of his novel ‘Breath’. For once, here is a surf book that isn’t just for surfers, but a love letter to the sea that can be read and understood by those far from it.
I came across this rad photo on the excellent Finisterre blog, with the photo being taken by Ian from Cornish Art Prints.


