Author Archives: jamie

Tim Winton’s Breath

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It is a beautiful thing when a writer is able to encapsulate perfectly our feelings, in a far more eloquent and accurate way than we could ever hope to manage. And so, on reading Tim Winton’s excellent surf novel ‘Breath’, I found myself in perfect understanding with the protagonist when he speaks of the freedom, pointlessness and beauty of surfing:

 “My favourite time is when we’re all at the Point, because when they see me out on the water I don’t have to be cautious and I’m never ashamed. Out there I’m free. I don’t require management. They probably don’t understand this, but it’s important for me to show them that their father is a man who dances – who saves lives and carries the wounded, yes, but who also does something completely pointless and beautiful, and in this at least he should need no explanation.”

And it is for this reason – Tim Winton’s understanding and experience of the surfing psyche – that I would recommend a read of his novel ‘Breath’. For once, here is a surf book that isn’t just for surfers, but a love letter to the sea that can be read and understood by those far from it.

cornwall surf photo

I came across this rad photo on the excellent Finisterre blog, with the photo being taken by Ian from Cornish Art Prints.

Classic Burton Ice Cube

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Olu Olu deals in art, not ads.

Although if an ad is clearly a work of art, then so be it.

After recently reliving the classic ‘Will you still be riding when it’s no longer cool?‘, here is another work of art from Burton snowboards that 15 years on still oozes timelessly cool style.

classic burton snowboard ice cube advertMake sure you check out the detail with both Ryan Williams and Dave Downing shredding all misty in this epic ice cube.

 

Let My People Go Surfing by Yvon Chouinard

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Yvon Chouinard’s guidebook to running an ethical business ‘Let My People Go Surfing – The Education of a Reluctant Businessman’ is a must read manual for anyone needing a dose of inspiration to start up the company of their dreams. The importance of the respecting the environment – and people – for a company infuses the book, as it surely does the company Patagonia itself.

Whilst Chouinard variously refers to Zen philosophy, the most revealing passage for me comes near the end of the work:

“The Zen master would say if you want to change government, you have to aim at changing corporations, and if you want to change corporations, you first have to change the consumers. Whoa, wait a minute! The consumer? That’s me. You mean I’m the one who has to change?

The original definition of consumer is: “One who destroys, or expends by use; devours, spends wastefully.” It would take seven earths for the rest of the world to consume at the same rate we Americans do. Ninety percent of what we buy in a mall ends up in the dump within sixty to ninety days. It’s no wonder we are no longer called citizens but consumers. A consumer is a good name for us, and our politicians and corporate leaders are reflections of whom we have become.”

Indeed, it is very easy to lay the blame of environmental policy at the feet of politicians, but the simple fact is politicians follow what the people want. To borrow the line from Gandhi – and Chouinard: “You must be the change you wish to see in the world”.

Patagonia Ambassador Johnny AbeggOne of Olu Olu’s favourite surfers and Patagonia ambassador Johnny Abegg